Bikepacking with Brendan, Part 2: Puyehue!

 2/9/2017. Llica, Chile. I’d been traveling with Brendan James for 3 days so far. We’d laughed, spoken in strange accents to mask the frustration at non-existent trails, and on occasion even ridden our bikes. After our river fording and bike-dragging … Read More

Bikepacking with Brendan Part 1: Pucon through the Huilo Huilo Reserve

2/6/2017. Pucon, Chile.  Leaving Pucon was a joy. Don’t get me wrong, it’s in a beautiful place and I met great people there. Just not my vibe. Too much hyper-wealthy tourism. Too many pre-packaged adventures. Not enough silence. So when … Read More

Getting the Lead Out: Santiago thru the Monkey Puzzle

1/12/17. Santiago, Chile.   Day 1: Leaving Santiago to San Fernando dump (148km) Riding away from Dalila’s home on a warm Santiago morning, I was filled with conflicting emotions. Although we’d agreed to meet up again further South, I knew … Read More

Plummeting down Peru: Ausangate Traverse, Titicaca, and Passport Issues

Cusco, Peru. 10/15/16. I’ve been in Cusco long enough. It’s really a wonderful city in a fantastic area, and I am certain I will be back sooner than later. Great food, warm and welcoming Peruvian culture, strong biking culture, fantastic single track, … Read More

Shall I Meet You, Machu Picchu?: The Sacred Valley Shuffle

9/19/2016. Curahuasi, Peru.  Let the sufferfest begin! Sure, I could elect to take the direct route to Cusco from my current perch in Curahuasi. It would only be a day’s ride, a mere 125km on smooth pavement… But that’s just not … Read More

Trans Ecuador MTB Route Pt 2: Tumbaco to Guamote

6/19/16. Tumbaco, Ecuador. You wake up with sore throat and stuffy nose. Your cough seems better for those initial moments laying in your sleeping bag with the “bunker” in Quito’s casa de ciclistas, but that all changes when you stand … Read More

Coughing through the Cordillera Part 1: Zapatoca to Cocuy

3/24/16 Zapatoca, Colombia.   I seem to have acquired a little sore throat and cough during a short stop off here in Zapatoca. Taking a rest day to get well seemed to do little more than establish the intensity of … Read More